Monday, 9 July 2012

In The Schedule

We're into a new week but what the hey, let's celebrate last week and everything Haute Couture with these links... (battling a head cold and numerous chores last week meant delaying this post until now, I hope it was worth the wait.)



+  Raf Simons celebrated his first outing as head designer at Christian Dior and the result was understated architectural silhouettes, elegant subtle details with a wash of crayola on the lids and vermillion on the lips - my favourite this painterly, ombre strapless gown  - oh, and all the pointy pumps!  More images via Fashionologie.








+  In this era of economic gloom, is Haute Couture relevant?  Every 20 years or so, the commentators say that it is not and that it must shut down - but it's still going strong since its beginnings with Charles Worth in the mid 1800's and pre-war Poiret and post-war Dior; over 100 years of creativity, dreaming, fascination and talented handiwork.


 "Haute Couture will exist as long as people want to dream" 

... said the French Fashion president of Chambre Syndicale, Didier Grumbach (via abc news).  Existing against all odds, a handful of customers worldwide are able to afford the exorbitant price tags for such fanciful creations let alone wear them somewhere.  But aside from the cost of these pieces, I think you cannot put a cost on an Atelier's heritage and age old tradition that is passed down from generation to generation for new audiences to marvel and admire.  

"It is not just about selling clothes; it's an advert, an ideas factory" added Grumbach.

And if it was all doom and gloom, then why would Dolce e Gabbana be launching a Haute Couture line being shown tomorrow/tonight in Paris.  (via)




+  Hedi Slimane celebrated the showing of the YSL Haute Couture Fall 2012 in front of a small private few; so that meant no photos, no images and not much details - but there is always a way to find out what the vibe was, and it sounds very Helmut Newton c1975 capturing images at night on Rue Aubriot, slick, chic, elegant and quintessential parisian Yves.  (Via Fashionista here).  

The Tribute shoe is still there in new colours of fuschia, blue & bright yellow and a pointy toe, the tux, pinstripes, ocelot, hotpants, cigarette pants, fluttery blouses with tie details and bias cut short dresses covered in dots.

And if you're into some more Helmut Newton, here are images by Newton via French Vogue here.



The inspiration- illustration detail of Helmut Newton's photo for
French Vogue 1975 on taken on Rue Aubriot



YSL Tribute Shoe with Pointy toe - might look like this?


When WWD decided to publish some illustrations by Steven Stipelman with his take on what the YSL range might look like, this is what he came up with... they had to pull the images the next day!  More images via Fashionologie here. And if you're interested in fashion illustrator Steven Stipelman's work, he has a book available here.


Illustration by Steven Stipelman - YSL Haute Couture Fall2012



+  For me, Christian Dior is the quintessential couture house, particularly with the advent of the New Look in 1947 - here is a beautiful run down on the history of Maison Dior, (in french but you can get the gist).  I need a mask like this one below!





+ But for some, Giorgio Armani is the most important, influential designer of the era, post New Look, for his adaption of men-style in womens fashion - an article found via here.  What do you think?  Certainly the languid, loose mens style pant suits of the 80's and 90's have permeated every wardrobe - hang-on, or was that YSL and his tuxedo suit?

Armani Prive
Haute Couture Fall 2012


+ Another great article on the ebb and flow of Haute Couture and its rising from the ashes post youthquake London in the 1960's to now, via Vanity Fair.


Illustration by Eric
1950 Schiaparelli


+ A little Haute Couture outfit by Chanel and it's creation  here.    My fingers ache just watching this short film!





+  An oldie from 2007 from the V&A in London- although the Golden Age of Couture exhibition is no more, you can still click on the interactive link and follow the timeline of your favourite designer and expand on its founding, important dates & accomplishes and interesting facts.  PS: Love the David Downton illustrations too.







+ One more.... A look back at some vintage Haute Couture images from archives and the pages of Vogue here.

Image by Irving Penn
Vogue Nov 2007

Phew, I'm exhausted.  I could have gone on with so much more to add, but I think I will keep the rest for later...  Hope your weekend was creative and bespoke as only you can do too! x





7 comments:

classiq said...

I would love to own a David Downtown illustration. As for the haute couture shows, I must admit the Dior one was not among my favourites. Not did I expect it to be. I'm expecting something else from couture, but I hope I will have time to write my thoughts down in a blog post this week. I wish you a wonderful week, Helen!
Ada

classiq said...

I would love to own a David Downtown illustration. As for the haute couture shows, I must admit the Dior one was not among my favourites. Not did I expect it to be. I'm expecting something else from couture, but I hope I will have time to write my thoughts down in a blog post this week. I wish you a wonderful week, Helen!
Ada

LatteLisa LisaHjalt said...

Sorry to hear about your cold, I hope you're feeling better.

I'm a big fan of couture, I just love looking at these pieces. Of course it never enters my mind that I'll ever own a piece like that in my wardrobe but I just love the shows.

I miss Galliano terribly, all that couture prettiness can get a little tiring. Raf's collection for Dior didn't do much for my couture heart (your illustration is beautiful). My favourite this season was Tisci for Givenchy. His collection blew me away.

All these links are wonderful. I was hoping the video was something I hadn't seen before because I love these short couture videos. I can't get enough of looking at the craftsmanship.

That David Downton illustration is gorgeous!

Thea vintage said...

Love your illustrations!
Its such a stylish and dreamy way to capture the feeling about beautiful gowns and haute couture.

C said...

Last year's Dior runway show was by far one of the most beautiful ones Ive ever seen. So yes! Huuuuge fan of the house!!!!
Your illustrations are to die for!! seriously!

:)

Audrey said...

I hope you feeling better Helen, and it's definitely worth the waiting for this post! beautiful illustrations girl!!

Audrey

Neda said...

Hope you are feeling better, Helen! Beautiful illustrations and I loved the great summary of the history. I think the commentary about haute couture not being relevant is silly. If something isn't relevant, it always dies down naturally, on its own. And, as is pretty evident today, there are no signs that it's going away just yet. Hope you have a wonderful week! Thanks for the welcome back note...it means a lot! xx

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